We settled back in Halifax, after a brief visit to Manitoba for the holidays, and were ready to see some sights again on the weekend. Our pick this time was Peggy’s Cove, because we got to do it at some point, right?
Before hopping into the car for the hour-long trip to the world-renowned town, we took a trip over to Dartmouth for some coffee and breakfast. Traveling by ferry is always our preferred method of transport when it is available.
Our yummy breakfast in Dartmouth
The coffee shop we visited was Two If By Sea where we both grabbed a cup of black coffee and a croissant of our choice. In quite the predictable fashion, Amy went with the savoury and I went with the sweet option. We hung out on the second floor of the shop doing what we love most: people watching and enjoying our bite. The coffee was not our favourite, so we decided to grab another cup from the shop at the Alderney Landing (plus a breakfast sandwich for me) before crossing back to Halifax.
Our view during breakfast in Dartmouth. We really like this spot!
We loaded our supplies into the car for our trip to Peggy’s Cove and headed out as soon as we got back from Dartmouth. The drive sent us down a smaller highway that followed along the coast. We climbed the gradual hills, wound around the corners, and followed the road as it molded to the landscape. It was a scenic drive with houses and fishing villages dotting the sides of the road, and we didn’t mind the slower speeds that the narrow roads required.
West Dover was one of the villages we drove through. As we passed the docks with boats tied beside them, you could see the cages and nets stacked high. It’s such a unique scene for us and we still feel like tourists when traveling through these areas.
Just before Peggy’s Cove, we stopped at Polly’s Cove. It was a hike recommended by a number of people in Halifax. We parked the car on the side of the road next to the trailhead and ventured into an area filled with gradual hill and sparse trees. About 1 kilometre in, we came across a foundation of an old building beside a cliff. As we walked around the far side of it, the trail opened up into this beautiful site of the ocean and cliffs. There was a wide clearing where we could venture off the beaten path.
Peggy’s Cove hiking trail. Middle photo shows the debris of the old building, perhaps a barrack, just before the trail opened up.
We followed along the shore up to the edge of a cliff. Along the way, we stopped to watch the waves crash against the shore, which reminded us of our first hike at Herring Cove and the original bliss we felt watching the power of the ocean.
By this time, the wind was beginning to pick up and a gentle rain started to fall. There had been a storm warning issued for later in the day and this must have been the start of it. We were determined to finish the trail and so we continued on. By the time we reached the far side of the cliff, we were getting pelted with rain and ice as we faced the wind head on. Our pace naturally picked up and we scrambled up the cliff and over, creating a natural barrier between us and the wind.
We hid from the sleet and freezing rain behind the cliff and hurried back to the car
We hurried back to the car and by the time we arrived, our jackets and jeans were pretty much soaked. So we blasted the heat to try and dry off before heading to our next spot.
Peggy’s Cove was only a short drive from the hike and we pulled into the town about 10 minutes after leaving Polly’s Cove. The town was really cute with coloured houses built along the hills; something you’d expect to see when imagining Atlantic Canada. Since it was January, the town was essentially closed for the winter and the only signs of life were at the world famous lighthouse, which causes the town to be swarmed with tourists in the summer months. Maybe it was the weather, or because we were cold and damp, but we didn’t think the lighthouse was anything special. We got our pictures in front of it for memories, but I don’t think I would would want to wait hours in line like some do in the summer just to see it.
Peggy’s Cove. Justin was very impressed by the lighthouse.
After touring around the lighthouse and taking some more pictures, we were ready to head home, but felt a little peckish along the way. The whole area is definitely more catered to the summer crowd, so the only place we could find before getting to Halifax was a restaurant called The Finer Diner.
At the diner waiting for some warm food. Amy got pretty cold from the hike.
The place was setup like your typical greasy spoon. There were two employees working as cook and server, and I’d expect they were the owners. Once we sat down, I decided I was more than just peckish and ordered a lobster roll, the first since moving to Halifax. The food was better than expected and the owners were really friendly. We will definitely keep this spot in mind if we are passing through the area.
After finishing our meal we hopped in our car and drove back to Halifax. It seemed like we got back just in time as the wind and the snow were really beginning to pick up. Winter time in Halifax has been unpredictable, thus far, but we’re doing what we can to make the most of each week – no matter what the forecast predicts.
J & A's Adventure 
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